【摘要】 为丰富天然染料品种,提取麻栎壳天然色素对羊毛织物进行染色,选择锌、铁、铝、钙4种金属离子,采用前媒、后媒、同浴媒3种媒染方法染色。选取不同金属离子、不同天然色素进行拼色实验,并对染色后羊毛织物的红外吸收光谱进行分析。结果表明:金属离子不同、媒染方法不同,染色后织物的颜色不同,其中前媒法织物表观色深值最大,各项牢度较好;用铁与锌2种不同配位离子、茜草与麻栎壳2种不同天然色素拼色,可获得良好的拼色效果,各项牢度普遍达到3级;红外光谱分析显示,羊毛在媒染时,金属离子可能与羊毛中的S—O键、羧基、酰胺基等发生配位反应,使媒染后的织物染色牢度提高。更多还原

【Abstract】 To enrich the varieties of natural dyes,acutissima natural coloring matter was extracted and used to dye wool fabrics employing three different dyeing methods: pre-mordanting,post-mordanting and one-bath mordanting with four metal ions of zinc,iron,aluminum and calcium.The combination dyeing experiments were also carried out by the use of different metal ions and natural coloring matters.The infrared absorption spectra of the mordant dyed fabrics were analyzed.The experiment results revealed that the color of dyed fabric varies with metal ions,and mordant dyeing method.In comparison,the fabric dyed by pre-mordanting exhibited the highest color depth and good color fastness.The combinations of iron and zinc ions as well as acutissima shell extract and madder extract achieved good color effect with every color fastness rating up to 3.IR analyses showed that the coordination reactions between metal ions with S—O bond,carboxyl and amido groups in wool occurred,which contributed to the improved color fastness.更多还原