【摘要】 通过对粤东后江湾近岸带垂岸方向上4个测站,同步观测到的波浪数据进行频域统计分析,初步探讨分析了波浪近岸传播过程中波浪统计性质的变化规律。结果表明:碎波带内波的频谱多峰特征显著,峰频两侧均存在着显著能量峰值,峰频能量发生转移;波浪经过破碎后,约束长波能量被释放出来;波浪向岸过程中谱宽度(ε)变大,同时谱尖度(Qp)减小,显著波陡(Ss)增大,峰值周期(Tp)增大,平均周期(Tm02)减小。更多还原

【Abstract】 Based on the wave data measured at 4 stations in Houjiang Bay,East Guangdong,China,wave Characteristics and changes in the nearshore zone were analyzed and compared primarily by wave frequency statistic.The results show that the wave spectra of the surf zone are composed of multi-freqency peaks.Significant energy peaks existing on the sides of the specta peaks show that the specta peaks energy transfer to both high and low frqency.The coupled long wave energy releases after wave breaking.During the wave approaching to the shoreline,the spectral width(ε),significant wave steeps(Ss) and spectral peak periods(Tp) increase while the wave spectral peak(Qp) and mean periods(Tm02) decrease.更多还原