【摘要】 为保持图案完整并达到合体塑型的要求,分析了面料热塑性对旗袍塑型方法的影响。首先结合人体结构对无省合体旗袍结构与归拔工艺进行设计,讨论影响合成纤维面料热塑性及面料归拔性能的因素,其次对面料进行成分分析,确定试样与试验方案,对面料进行归拔性能测试,运用数学方法对测试数据进行分析,找出各因素间的相关性及最佳组合水平参数,根据最佳组合水平参数进行无省合体旗袍试制。结果表明,利用合成纤维面料热塑性,结合人体结构与服装结构特点,设计先归拔后裁剪无省合体塑型方法是可行的。更多还原

【Abstract】 To maintain integrity of the pattern and meet the needs of fitness,the influence of the fabric heat setting on model method of Chinese gown was analyzed.First of all,it was designed that the structure and the blocking process of fitness of no-dart Chinese gown according to the structure of human body and the influencing factors of synthetic fiber heating setting and blocking performance of fabrics were discussed.Then the fabric content,identifies individual material and plans for the test were analyzed,the blocking performance of the fabric was tested and the test data was analyzed through mathematic method to find out the relationship among different factors and the best combination parameters.Finally,no-dart Chinese gown will be produced on trial basis by adopting the best combination parameters.The study shows that by taking advantages of thermoplasticity of synthetic fabrics and combing with the features of the human body and garment structure,it is possible to design blocking first and then cutting model for making fit and no-dart Chinese gown.更多还原