【摘要】 利用粤东汕尾寮咀口岬间海滩重复测量的剖面数据,计算了6个(-1～2m)不同高程处的海滩单宽体积。通过经验正交函数分解和谱分析,探讨了不同高程处沿岸海滩体积变化的主要空间过程及其在时间上的变化特征。并与同期的风、浪作相干谱,分析了其变化的动力因素。结果表明,海滩体积的空间变化的主要特征可由占数据总体方差76%～87%的的三个特征函数来描述:第一特征函数表征了海滩变化的主要过程,此过程有以第1条剖面为中心的泥沙运动,且有半月的准周期;第二特征函数体现相应的海滩过程有以第8条剖面为中心的泥沙运动,不同的高度层面有不同的短周期过程;第三时间特征函数与测量过程出现的台风有较好的吻合。交差谱分析表明,海滩体积变化与风、浪有较好的相关性;体积变化对风、浪在不同高度层面有不同时间的滞后。更多还原

【Abstract】 Based on repeatedly measured profile data on the beach between headlands at the Liaozuikou bay in Shanwei, Eastern Guangdong Province, the beach volume data of unit width at different heights (2.0～1.0 m) were obtained. The main variation processes of the beach volume were analyzed with EOF. The results show that the beach volume variations can be described by three eigenfunctions which account for 76% to 87% of total variance. The first eigenfuntion represents the main process of beach volume variation which has a zero crossing near the profile 1 where the alongshore translocations occurred and has a 13～14 day period. The second eigenfunction has a zero at the location of profile 8 and has different variation periods in different heights. The time series associated with the third eigenfunction correlates in accordance with typhoon events. The analysis of waves and wide with cross spectra shows that the volume variations well with wave and wind, and volume variations lag behind waves and winds effects but the phase is different at different heights.更多还原