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Wave Damping and Refraction-Diffraction Due to Variable Depth Porous Bottom
【Abstract】 The refraction-diffraction of surface waves due to porous variable depth has been the subject of many investigations. In the present study, we extend the boundary-value problem of impermeable varying topography to that of a variable depth porous seabed, which is the situation most likely to be encountered in practical prob-lems of coastal engineering. A wave-induced fluid motion is applied to the porous bottom, while the well-known linear potential theory is applied to the free-water above the bottom. Eigenfunction expansions are employed to derive the matching condition and the so-called modified dispersion relation. As a result of the porous bottom, the wavenumber becomes a complex value, of which the real part represents the spatial periodicity while the imagi-nary part refers to the energy dissipation. The characteristics of water waves over a porous bottom are studied in detail. By neglecting the non-propagating modes which only have a local effect and damp exponentially with dis-tance, we derive a mathematical model to represent the characteristics of both the wave refraction-diffraction and wave-damping. The developed model is applied to the damping problem of waves over submerged porous breakwaters.
【Key words】 porous breakwater; potential theory; wave-damping; wave refraction-diffraction;
- 【文献出处】 Tsinghua Science and Technology ,清华大学学报(自然科学版英文版) , 编辑部邮箱 ,2004年02期
- 【分类号】TV139
- 【下载频次】21