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中国西周以前织物素材、结构和织具的研究
A STUDY ON THE RAW MATERLAL, STRUCTURE AND WEAVING INSTRUMENTS OF FABRICS BEFORE THE WEST ZHOU DYNASTY
【摘要】 对西周以前的织物工艺的研究已经不少,但大多比较零散,而且主要着眼于丝绸。本文以迄今为止在中国出土的西周以前典型纺织文物的文献为基础,系统地研究这个时期的织造工艺,包括原料、织物结构、织具。对浙江河姆渡遗址出土的织具零件,结合甲骨文、金文中提示织具的文字,进行了研究。结果显示,所有主要天然纤维已经用上;所有简单和复合的织物组织,除缎纹外,已经出现;所用的织具除已知的原始腰机外可能还有3点或4点支持的地织机。
【Abstract】 A lot of research works have been done on studying the technology of fabrics making before the West Zhou Dynasty, but most of them are fragmentary and one-sided, emphasizing mainly silk fabrics.In this paper, based on literature of relics of typical fabrics before the West Zhou unearthed in China till now, the weaving techology, including the raw materials, the fabric structure, and the weaving instruments of that period was synthetically studied. The wooden loom parts unearthed in the Hemudu ruin, Zhejiang Prov. were studied with reference to the inscriptions on bones and tortoise shells as well as the characters casted on bronze objects, denoting the weaving instruments of pre-Zhou period.The results show that, all the main natural fibres were utilized, all simple and combined weaves except the satin weave had appeared, and the weaving instruments might be the ground loom with 3 or 4 point supports, besides the breast loom already reported.
【Key words】 fabric construction; weaving; natural fiber; Icno cloth; Qi; twill; ground loom; figuring heald rod;
- 【文献出处】 中国纺织大学学报 , 编辑部邮箱 ,1996年02期
- 【分类号】K875
- 【被引频次】12
- 【下载频次】326