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风浪与涌浪的划分判据

CRITERIA OF DIFFERENTIATING SWELL FROM WIND WAVES

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【作者】 汪炳祥常瑞芳王一飞

【Author】 Wang Bingxiang Chang Ruifang (Ocean University of Oingdao) Wang Yifei (Iastitute of Oceanology, Academia Sinica)

【机构】 青岛海洋大学中国科学院海洋研究所 青岛青岛青岛

【摘要】 为了分别从深水海浪与浅水海浪中辨别出涌浪,文中提出三个判据:深水:U~2/H≤43.6,δ≤0.0193,β≥1.17;浅水:U~1/H≤62.0,δ≤0.0177,β≥1.07。就所检验的例子而言,只要海浪同时满足上述三判据中的任意两个就可定义为涌浪;依此所得的结果与观测数据的符合较现有判据的为好。

【Abstract】 In order that Swell is differentiated from deep-water and shallow-water ocean waves respectively, three criteria are proposed as follows:In deep water: δ≤1.93×10-2, β≥1.17 and U2/H≤43.6.In shallow water: δ≤1.77×10-2, β≥1.07 and U2/H≤62.0, where δ is the wave steepness, β the wave age, U the wind speed (m.s-1) and H the average wave hight(m).Provided that ocean waves satisfy simultaneously with any two of the above mentioned criteria, they may be defined as swell.

【基金】 国家自然科学基金(批准号:4880227)
  • 【被引频次】35
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