【摘要】 <正> 为了使涤纶丝织物能得到仿真丝的效果,碱减量处理是目前使用的方法之一,减量后织物的性能与结构都有很大的变化,现就这些变化对涤纶的光泽和柔软性的影响,更多还原

【Abstract】 In this paper, the theory of silk-like appearance of the PES filament fabrics resulting from alkali treatment has been studied on two aspects, the lustre and the soft-handle.The lustre of silk is about 23 times as much as that of PES fiber. Obviously, decresing its direct reflection light or increasing its diffuse reflection light from the inside of the fiber has become a main technique to obtain the silk-like lustre. The investigation shows that the chief mechanism to improve the silk-like effect of lustre lies in the morphology modification of warp and weft. The result comes from the screening of the surface holes and pits and the decrease of direct reflection area on the surface of the filament yarn, which will lead to a decrease of direct reflection light.It has been assumed that the variation in the soft-handle after alkali treatment is due to the change of fineness and modulus of warp and weft and of crushing and friction coefficient between them. The effect of each mentioned factor on the improving of soft-handle is dependent on the corresponding number to represent the range of variation of these factors before and after the alkali treatment. The total contributions of all this factors to the soft-handle can be expressed in terms of their product called comprehensive number N. Experiments show that the difference is quite small between N and amplitude of variation of drape coefficient. Thus, if we want to understand and control the taws of the soft-handle variations of fabrics, we ought to have the variation of the four factors under control during the treatment, among which the decrease of fineness and crushing is essential for achieving the soft-handle. This method can also be applied to all-silk fabrics with alkali treatment.更多还原