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含涤纶织物热定型工艺及机理的探讨(上)

AN APPROACH TO TECHNOLOGY AND MECHANISM OF HEAT SETTING OF FABRICS CONTAINING TERYLENE (Ⅰ)

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【作者】 孙铠周翔王慧娟费国梅赵世敏王秋梅李申麟

【Author】 Sun Kai Zhou Xiang Li Shenlin

【机构】 华东纺织工学院染整教研室华东纺织工学院染整教研室新光内衣染织厂

【摘要】 本文对涤纶长丝和涤/棉混纺织物热定型的机理和工艺改进进行了研究。在实验中采用了九种近代和常规的测试仪器和方法,如 X-射线衍射仪、红外光谱仪、DTA 等测定了定型前后涤纶超分子结构和织物性能如尺寸热稳定性、回复角等的变化。涤纶长丝定型程度可用它在苯酚中的临界溶解时间(CDT)作检验。本实验中还建立了涤/棉混纺织物中涤纶短纤维 CDT 值的测定方法,并获得了关于结晶度(dc)、晶粒尺寸(s)、CDT 值,织物干热收缩(c)与热定型温度(T)之间的良好关系。在晶粒尺寸和 CDT 值与定型温度的关系曲线中分别在194℃和196℃有一个转折点。CDT 值的对数与结晶度、晶粒尺寸或织物尺寸热稳定性的对数之间的关系可用下列方程表示:1gCDT=10.34×10-3T-13.33×10-31gCDT=59.08×10-3dc-1.3401gS=0.4391 1gCDT+0.88031gC=2.5899-1.18851gCDT(定长,经)1gC=3.202-1.882 1gCDT(松弛,经)涤纶超分子结构变化的活化能和碰撞频率为1.806×104卡和5.355×10?-1。上述事实表明涤纶的 CDT 值能在一定程度上反映涤纶纤维的结晶度、晶粒尺寸和完整性,因此,它是一种判断热定型效果的简便而有效的方法。为了提高含涤纶织物的尺寸热稳定性,定型温度应接近或稍低于织物受热史中的最高温度或比使用温度高20°—30℃,由于涤/棉混纺织物的尺寸热稳定性较好,所以定型温度可稍低于涤纶长丝织物。在定型过程中,除非温度超过220℃,无定形取向度不发生降低。定型后涤纶织物的染色性能与纤维的结晶度和空隙度有关。对定型时的张力和时间对定型效果影响也进行了讨论。

【Abstract】 The mechanism and technical improvement of heat setting of terylene filament andT/C blended fabrics have been investigated.In these experiments,nine different mo-dern and ordinary instruments and methods such as X-ray diffracter,IR spectros-copy,differential thermal analysis were used to estimate the changes of terylene’ssuper-molecular structure and fabric quality after heat setting such dimension thermalstability,crease recovery etc.Critical Dissolution Time (CDT)of terylene filament inphenol was used to examine the degree of heat setting.The method of estimating theCDT value of terylene staple fiber in T/C blends has been established.Good correlationsbetween crystallinity (dc),crystal size(s),CDT value,dry thermal shrinkage (c) andheat setting temperature (T) are found,there is an inflexion at 194℃ and 196℃ inthe crystal size vs.heat setting temperature and CDT value vs.heat setting tempe-rature curves respectively.The relations between crystallinity,1g crystal size,1g dry thermal shrinkage and 1g CDT may be shown as follows:1g CDT=10.34×10-3 T-13.33×10-31g CDT=59.08×10-3 d?-1.341g S= 0.439/1g CDT+0.88031g C=2.5899-1.1885 1g CDT (constant length,warp)1g C=3.202-1.882 1g CDT (slack,warp)The energy of activation and the frequency of collisions for super-molecularstructure changes of terylene are 1.806×104 cal.and 5.355×108 sec-1 respectively.According to the facts shown above,the CDT value of terylene can be used as acriterion for assessing the crystallininty,crystal size or crystal perfection of terylenefiber,hence a simple and effective method for assessing the result of heat setting.For improving the dimension thermal stability of terylene containing fabrics,thetemperature of setting should be near or slightly lower than the highest temFeratureof the thermal history of the fabric or 20-30℃ higher than the temperature to beencountered in its use.As T/C blended fabrics have better dimension thermal stability,temperature used for setting may be lower than that used for terylene filament fabrics.Nodecrease of amorphous orientation has been found during setting except attemperatures beyond 220℃.The dyeing property of set terylene fabrics depends onthe crystallinity and porosity of the fiber.The effects of tension and setting time arealso discussed.

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