【作者】 党敏；

【导师】 王善元；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织材料与纺织品设计， 2007， 博士

【摘要】 氨纶包芯纱的纺纱方法已经在棉、毛精纺设备上有了广泛的应用和深入的研究，但是却未见在毛粗纺设备上应用的报道。在毛粗纺细纱机上纺制毛／氨包芯纱，可达到粗纺细化的效果，进一步提高粗纺纱支；可降低原料要求，缩短工艺，降低成本，使之具有较高的性价比；粗纺包芯纱具有独特的风格特征，因此可以丰富毛纱品种，使产品具有新颖性特征。本文从理论和实践两方面研究了毛粗纺弹力产品的力学性能以及该类产品的开发应用，建立了一种用来精确预测毛／氨包芯纱机械性能的理论模型，丰富了纱线的力学性能研究(长丝纱、短纤纱)，并可为织物的性能研究提供理论依据；进行毛粗纺弹力织物的开发和设计，丰富了毛粗纺产品的种类，具有良好的经济效益；建立了粗纺弹力织物弹性伸长的经验预测公式，有助于该类产品的生产实践安排；推导出表征粗纺弹力织物拉伸回复性能的修正方程，提供了研究弹力产品的一种新方法。在弹性包芯纱理论研究方面，本文以Hearle的基础纱线力学分析理论为起点，结合包芯纱的结构特点，应用纤维滑脱理论，提出了纤维利用系数这一概念，并最终建立氨纶包芯纱力学性能的理论模型。通过理论研究，建立起纱线拉伸性能与纤维参数、纱线参数、纱线结构之间的理论关系，探讨了纤维利用系数和纱线捻度对包芯纱性能的影响规律，丰富了纱线力学性能的理论分析研究。经对比分析，理论预测的拉伸曲线具有较好的准确性和实用性。在弹性伸长的经验预测上，结合各道生产工序对弹性织物的影响，先推导出较精确的理论成品幅宽，进而得出织物的弹性伸长。此外，本文还在王府梅的织物拉伸理论基础上，研究了弹性织物拉伸回复性能的理论预测，得出弹性织物拉伸回复曲线的修正方程，建立起弹性织物组织结构参数、经纬纱拉伸和压缩性能与织物拉伸性能之间的关系。在试验研究方面，本文设计并改装了毛粗纺细纱机，使之能够纺出质量合格的包芯纱。运用单因子试验和正交试验讨论了氨纶百分含量、纱线捻度、氨纶牵伸倍数对弹性纱线性能的影响规律，得出各因子对纱线性能影响的显著程度和最优加工工艺参数。研究了纱线捻度、氨纶牵伸倍数对弹性织物性能的影响，得出最优的纱线工艺参数。在应用研究方面，本文以试验研究工作为基础，总结了弹力织物开发的特点，并成功开发了毛粗纺弹力织物，丰富了纺织面料种类。经试验验证，所开发织物的拉伸弹性和风格特征均能满足弹性产品的要求，具有良好的实用性和推广性。更多还原

【Abstract】 ABSTRACTThe spandex core-spinning method has been successfully applied on cotton and worst spinning system. However there is no such report on woolen spinning system. Wool/spandex core-spun yarn produced on woolen spinning frame may achieve the following advantages: finer and better quality yarn with the same raw material; shortening process and cutting the cost; endowing with novel character and enriching the category of yarn. In this paper, mechanical properties of woolen products were studied theoretically and practically in detail. A new type of accurate theoretical model was established to predict tensile properties of wool/spandex core-spun yarn, which enriched the theoretical study of mechanical property of yarn and was helpful in theoretical analysis of fabric properties. The design and development of woolen elastic fabric provided reference for mass production in mill, which had proved to be economic and applicable. Practical elastic elongation of fabric was predicted and turned out to be good to manufacturing in mill. Correction equations were derived to describe tensile and recovery properties of stretch woolen fabric, which provided a new way in analysis of elastic products.In theoretical analysis on tensile properties of elastic core-spun yarn, a new parameter, fiber utilization coefficient, was provided by combining with fiber slippage theory. Theoretical model was set up based on classical theory of yarn mechanical properties. Through the study, theoretical relations between core-spun yarn tensile properties and fiber parameters, yarn parameters, yarn structure were established. Also the impacts of fiber utilization coefficient and yarn twist on yarn properties were discussed theoretically. Comparison with experimental results showed that theoretical model was accurate and applicable. In the practical prediction of fabric elastic elongation, theoretical finished fabric width was derived. Combined with the effect of each process on fabric properties, fabric elastic elongation was obtained. Furthermore, theoretical prediction on tensile and recovery property of elastic fabric was studied on the basis of former fabric theory. Correction equations were worked out to establish the relation between fabric tensile properties and fabric structural parameters, tensile and compression properties of warp and elastic weft.In experimental part, woolen spinning frame was modified to adapt to produce good quality elastic core-spun yarn. Single factor and orthogonal experiments were carried out to discuss the impact of spandex percentage, yarn twist factor, spandex drawing ratio on yarn properties. As a result, significance level and optimal yarn processing parameters were obtained. Besides, the impacts of elastic yarn twist factor, spandex drawing ratio on fabric properties were also investigated, and the optimal yarn parameters were obtained.In the application, based on the theoretical and experimental studies, the characteristic in developing stretch fabric was summarized and woolen stretch fabric was successfully developed, which enriched the category of textile fabric. Experiments showed that the new developed woolen stretch fabric could meet the requirements on elasticity and handling. So this kind of fabric is technically mature and can be popularized in practical application.Ph稤. Candidate: Dang Min (Textile Material and Design of Textiles) Supervised by : Prof. Wang Shanyuan更多还原